Saturday, October 31, 2009
It is hard to believe but we are back in London now, our travel week has come to an end. We are in the common room at Gloria's hotel. Krista is getting ready to leave to come home tomorrow afternoon. I still have three more days, which I hope to take at a little slower pace. We have moved so rapidly through all the places that we have been that I don't feel I have quite realized that I am really here, traveling around the UK.
After the post last night, we went on a ghost tour of Edinburgh, which started at 9:30, making it suitably spooky. The guide told us a lot of interesting stories about suicides, murders, murder/suicides, the leper hospital, hangings and why the people were hung, one contemporary story of a murderer who thought he was a vampire. I will spare you the gory details, but feel free to ask if you are interested. We went into a graveyard and saw some interesting spots, then went high up on a peak above the city called Calton Hill. It afforded incredible views of the New Town and the Firth of Forth in one direction and the Old Town and Arthur's Saddle from a different vantage point. It was somewhat scary walking up the hill, as there were not lights on the path (hence the great night view of the city) and no guard rails. But at the top of the hill, the wind was strong and it began to rain. Then instead of following the path, our guide took a shortcut, coming down a significant part of the hill on slick uneven grass, terrifying me.
After we left Calton Hill, we came to an interesting passageway called 'Jacob's Ladder'. This is one of several sets of steps leading from a street on one level to one on a dramatically different level. This particular set of steps has four or five flights of steps, quite narrow from side to side. The steps themselves are somewhat uneven. It was still raining and they were covered with leaves, making it a real adventure. I clung to the rail and held up the 20 people behind me, but I descended safely. We then hiked back up the Royal Mile to the Bank Bar where as part of the tour we got a much welcomed free pint. The bar had live music, far too loud and suffered from the overheating we have found to be common in most of the places we have been. Apparently the low 50's seems pretty cold to folks all around the UK.
I have loved every minute of the trip, even the parts where my feet hurt up to my hips. Edinburgh was the most challenging as it is incredibly hilly. I don't think there was any level ground. I couldn't properly enjoy going down hill or down steps because I knew that it was inevitable that we had to go back up. But all that aside, Edinburgh was my favorite of the places we visited. I think I would enjoy a longer visit there, with time to explore some of the places that we just touched on during this trip. And I would love to do more traveling in Scotland, there was a minibus tour that went from Edinburgh to Hadrian's Wall with various interesting sites along the way. So much to see there.... perhaps there will be another trip some time.
We got up this morning and caught a train around 9AM for London. We took one train to Warrington, then switched to what was supposed to be an express to London Euston. Unfortunately there were mechanical problems affecting the first four carriages (we were in one of them) and they stopped and all of us in those four cars had to de-train. We caught another express just a few minutes later and arrived uneventfully in London.
Soon after, we walked from our hotel to Covent Garden to shop in the market there. It is an interesting mix of upscale shops, market stalls, street performers, restaurants. While shopping at a jewelry stall we heard a string quartet, a while later we walked through an area where a tenor was singing opera, a bit later there was a man with a six foot tall dragon with about a twelve foot wingspan. I found it to be a pretty fun place, although by that point in the day we were all really tired.
We had dinner at Pizza Hut because Krista wanted to see if they were different in London. Conclusion - yes, quite different. I had a Tuscani pizza special with chicken and portobello mushrooms on a pesto base. Surprisingly good for Pizza Hut.
This morning when we left for the train station, it was absolutely beautiful. Probably mid-fifties and sunny. But in typical UK fashion, by the time we were 30 minutes outside Edinburgh, it was gray and foggy and just a little later it was raining. By the time we got back to London, it was sunny here and it seemed to be in the low sixties. It was an amazing fall London afternoon. And fun to see all the adults in some type of costume walking around, ready for Halloween.
Gloria is planning to take Krista out later tonight for a snake bite. I believe that this consists of cider, lager (which I think is American beer) and black current. I have been invited to join them since none of Gloria's friends were available to go along, so it wouldn't be too embarrassing to have Mom along. So, I guess I will take advantage of the opportunity to experience London night life (hopefully a tame example).
Tomorrow afternoon Gloria suggested that perhaps we should go to one of the places on her list that is required for her class, she has quite a few she still needs to see. I think this is quite enough.
Friday, October 30, 2009
We went on a walking tour that lasted nearly 4 hours today, it was a great introduction to the city, including a lot of history, a lot of fun facts and many trips up and down steps, hills, and closes.
The tour left me with the impression that Scotland is a very different place. The people, the history are very different from England and from Wales. The cultures of all three are very distinct one from another. It is somewhat surprising to me for three countries that occupy one island that geographically is not that large to have such distinct cultures. Scotland seems wilder, more independent, more 'in your face'.
We saw the church where Sean Connery was knighted by Queen Elizabeth. We saw the place where John Knox is buried. Interestingly, he seems to not be that popular here, his gravesite is in what was a kirkyard but is now a parking lot (the graves were moved because the top layer of graves were becoming exposed in rain - which is a common occurrence here in Scotland). Apparently there is a small marker noting the spot of Knox's grave, but it is in a parking spot and we couldn't see it since there was a red car parked in the spot. Thus, my thought that perhaps he is less than 'revered'.
I wanted Scottish Shortbread, so we walked back to the Elephant Cafe and got shortbread in an elephant shape, after eating at Deacon Brodie's Tavern.
Thursday, October 29, 2009
Train Travel and some random thoughts
We are in Edinburgh this evening. We walked in a drizzle up the Royal Mile and down George IV Bridge Street to find the Elephant Cafe, where J.K. Rowling wrote the first Harry Potter book. We were going to eat dinner there but it is kind of small and crowded, so we just looked around then went to another restaurant right on the Royal Mile to eat. Tomorrow we will take a free walking tour of Edinburgh. It is a three hour tour and the city is really hilly -- no, I mean REALLY hilly. So wish me luck, it sounds energetic.
We have walked miles each day, today was our slowest day due to the extended train travel. We probably only walked a couple of miles today, most days have been considerably more than that. I am looking forward to seeing the Edinburgh Castle and many of the other sights. Edinburgh so far seems much older than London. The architecture is Gothic, heavy large darkened stones, lots of stained glass. All very massive and looming. Partly that may have to do with our arriving at dark, and to the rain. But it is very impressive. I suspect that one day is going to give us a very limited look at a city that has a great deal to offer.
The choice on the trip was whether to do one or two things fairly deeply or whether to move around a lot and get a taste of many things. I am glad that we made the choice to at least sample Wales and Scotland, I would have felt somewhat cheated otherwise.
When we get back to London, Gloria plans to take Krista shopping in Covent Garden Saturday afternoon. Sunday Krista leaves for home. I have Monday to do whatever I want, it will be hard to decide. I am thinking about Westminster Abbey and the Wesley Chapel, possibly a quick look at Harrods..... maybe the British Museum which is only a couple of blocks from Gloria's hotel. Then Monday night we are seeing a play, War Horse. It is part of Gloria's program, and I get to go along. Tuesday afternoon Gloria and I plan to go to the Natural History Museum. And Wednesday I come home, hard to believe. It has gone so fast since we have been so very busy.
I have taken around 400 pictures, I will get them on Facebook after I get home, probably not before that. We are using various internet facilities. Tonight we are staying at the Smart City Hostel in the center of Edinburgh, and they have a bunch of computers available (for a fee of course, it is a hostel).
We have been happy with our lodgings, all economy, but really very nice. Our room tonight and tomorrow night has three sets of bunk beds, but just the three of us. I am looking forward to a hot shower and hopefully a good night's sleep. Although jet lag has not been bad, it is at bedtime that I notice it. I have had some trouble sleeping, I think my body is just confused.
More tomorrow if time allows.
Wednesday, October 28, 2009
Touring, traveling and more touring
Then to Lacock Village, another Cotswold village which was the site of some scenes from several Harry Potter movies, including Harry's parents house (where they were killed by Voldemort) and Pride and Prejudice -- a number of others as well. We ate lunch in a pub there, then walked around the village. Along the way we saw a chalk horse, Sandy End which is a village of thatch roof cottages and a village called Tiddley Wink as well as Silbury Hill which is a large mound structure.
Our last stop of the day was Stonehenge, which far exceeded my expectations. Although I expected to be impressed, I found that it felt like a very holy site. I could easily envision priests from an ancient religion processing through the mist. We were told that it was built 4,500 years ago and faithfully maintained for 1,500 years then abandoned..... it is intriguing to think about what its purpose was, what caused all that care then why was it abandoned. Of course we will never know.
We took the train to Swansea last night, and spent today exploring. We spent the morning at the Waterfront Museum, which uses lots of technology to provide some really nice interactive exhibits and gave us a lot of information about Wales. I particularly enjoyed seeing the exhibits (bilingual by the way) and learning a lot more about Wales than I had known before. In addition, there was a lot of information on renewable energy sources, which was really interesting.
After that we went to the Dylan Thomas Center which had a good exhibit with many chances to learn about Dylan Thomas and to hear his work, much of it read by him. I found myself listening to 'Do Not Go Gentle Into That Good Night' over and over, having it read by the author who wrote it as his father was dying really made it that much more meaningful, and it has been a favorite of mine. The exhibit gave a really balanced view of Thomas, who like so many artists was both hugely talented and flawed.
Then we walked around Swansea, passing the ruins of the Swansea Castle which just sit in the middle of the City Centre, we stopped at the Swansea Market which is the largest market in Wales. Lots of baked goods, meat, purses, furniture .. all the things you expect to see at a market. We had an outstanding Thai dinner just a few doors from our B&B, surprising for Wales.
Tomorrow we will catch a train to Edinburgh, spending most of the day traveling. We are prepared with books, iPods, puzzles and other entertainments.
Monday, October 26, 2009
Bath
I am in complete awe to have stood at the Roman Baths, which were built in around 42AD. It is beyond my comprehension that people 2000 years ago built this and worshiped there. And the Bath Abbey was equally awe inspiring. We were fortunate to be there for a short prayer service, then got to look around at everything in this 500 year old abbey. Interesting, it was the site of the coronation of King Edgar, the first king of all England, I don't remember the exact year, but around 970AD.
The most interesting thing to me is that all of this history is just there, right in the middle of a lively town. Standing in one spot, I was facing the Roman Baths with the Bath Abbey on my left and a Ben and Jerry's behind me. Just a short distance to the right was the shopping area, a charming pedestrian mall lined with contemporary shops, some local and some names we all know, like The Gap. There are many carts selling interesting things, flowers, scarves, hats and who knows what. There were street performers of all types. One man was riding a unicycle and juggling large lit torches. This was as the afternoon turned somewhat dark, making it extra charming. There was a Celtic one man band with the most interesting instrument, clearly of his own design. There was a violinist on a tight rope, and on it went. I could have walked around much longer.
The Jane Austen Center was very interesting, it focussed especially on her time in Bath, and on the two books of hers that were set in Bath, Northanger Abbey and Persuasion. We learned that she never got to see her name in print, the books published while she was alive just said 'by a lady' or something similar. Her brother arranged to have Northanger Abbey published after her death, and to publish it under her name. It was never published while she was alive. Given that , it is especially good to see her recognized and people coming to the museum
Time to end this post as the internet time is running short. We purchased an hour and shared it among the three of us.
Tomorrow we tour Stonehenge, Avebury and many other places, then leave for Wales in the evening. We will visit the Dylan Thomas center in Swansea, and the annual Dylan Thomas Festival will be under way. I look forward to going to Glamorgan, which is my great-grandmother's home. I only wish I knew exactly where she was from, but I will just have to appreciate all Glamorgan.
Sunday, October 25, 2009
Tour of London
We really got to see all of London, including some of the areas that a lot of tours don't go. I was very excited to see Marble Arch for the first time -- but then the tour kind of looped around and we got to see it again. As we passed it for the third time, I got a better picture. The 4th time I didn't need another picture, and then the fifth time......
Seriously the tour was a great orientation and now I can pick a few places I want to see more of for my last few days after we do our rail trip. The only down side was that we sat on top of a double decker tour bus (of course) and it was a bit chilly. In fact, by the time the tour ended around 4PM it was downright cold.
Tomorrow we leave for Bath, where we plan to see the Roman Baths, the Abbey and the Jane Austen Center. Beyond that, whatever time allows. I suspect that there is enough to do for a full day, but we decided to start a little later tomorrow to let our bodies catch up with the time. The fact that Krista and I are both in the common room using the computers at 2AM absolutely confirms that we made a wise decision.
Tuesday we will see Stonehenge, Avebury and various sights in that area on a tour called 'Mad Max' (not for the movies, for the owner's name, Maddie and her dog Max). Here is a link that includes detail about where the tour goes: Stonehenge Full Day Tour
We aren't planning to take a computer along, so there may be no posts during the next few days, although we will likely find internet cafes along the way.
In London at last!
It was gray with off and on light rain until late afternoon when after a quick cloudburst the sky turned a bright blue with puffy white clouds and we thoroughly enjoyed the low 60's weather.
We spent the rest of the day in Oxford. One of the colleges was having a degree ceremony, so some buildings were closed off, but it was really interesting to see the students and professors walking around in gowns. We got to see a great deal of Oxford, and spent some time at Christ Church, the college founded by Henry VIII, and attended by John Wesley, many Prime Ministers, Lewis Carroll and others. Parts of the cathedral date back to the 12th century. I am awed to have walked on the same stones that all those historic figures walked. We toured the Great Hall where the students eat, it is an impressive room lined with paintings of the famous folks who attended and ate there. You could smell the scent of what had most likely been served for lunch, a pleasant apple/cinnamon smell. Overall, Oxford was far more impressive than I expected (and I expected a lot). I am so glad that we made the effort and didn't let jet lag keep us from enjoying it.
When we got back to London, Krista and I took a nap then a shower which helped us to feel a part of the human race again. We then went out for a dinner of the famous British fish and chips, at The North Sea Restaurant. The fish did not disappoint.
The UK and Europe changed from Daylight Savings time to 'Winter Time' overnight, giving us a welcome extra hour to catch up. I am in the common room at our hotel, looking out over Bedford place. The morning started out bright and sunny, but seems to have grayed a little. This block is lined with hotels, and there are people walking around. I can't decide what the weather is since people are wearing everything from short sleeved shirts to winter jackets.
After breakfast we will go and tour London!
Thursday, October 22, 2009
Rain, Overweight Baggage, Foreign Currency Exchange
No wonder I love traveling by car. Need that extra book, toss it in. Need the Riverside Shakespeare, no problem, stuff it in a corner. It is possible that you are thinking 'is she perhaps just a bit obsessive'? Not really, it is the analytical mind at work.
I have checked in for my flight and to my surprise, the flight leaves from Terminal 1 instead of the International Terminal. Next issue to obsess over. Is there a foreign currency exchange in Terminal 1? Well, according to the O'Hare information page there is, on the lower level. And there are carts at the gates where international flights depart as well. And of course, worst case would be that I have to change money in London at Heathrow. So perhaps that is not something I need to worry about either. I will have to look for something else. There are a couple of things left on the to-do list, and they fall into the optional category. I have tomorrow morning to finish off last tasks, so I think I am ready.
I am glad that the last couple of days were totally busy at work, with all day workshops on an interesting project. It made the time go quickly. It was gray and rainy, on the chilly side. A lot what I expect to find in the UK... I have a waterproof jacket with a hood and a folding umbrella. I don't think I will mind if it is somewhat rainy, but I wouldn't mind if there was some sunny weather as well.
Most likely the next post will be a few days out and will come from London and will include travels other than within my convoluted mind . . . .
Wednesday, October 21, 2009
Dylan Thomas, John Wesley and more....
I have read a lot of the guidebook and will read more on the plane. In my reading and planning, I learned that we will be in Swansea, Wales, which is Dylan Thomas's hometown during the annual Dylan Thomas festival. In honor of that, I have just listened to 'Under Milkwood' and read 'A Child's Christmas in Wales'. I also learned that Richard Burton asked to be buried with an anthology of Thomas's work in his hands.
I looked up some more sites on the internet, and located a couple of Wesley sites, one is the Aldersgate Flame, at the site of John Wesley's 'warming of the heart' and Wesley's Chapel with a museum of Methodism. There is a lot to see, but if time permits these would be interesting places to see, especially the Wesley Chapel. I especially want to see Westminster Abbey and St. Paul's Cathedral as well, along with the Cabinet War Rooms, which are highly recommended.
Here are a few interesting facts about Wesley's Chapel:
The site of Wesley's Chapel was purchased from the Corporation of London in 1776 and construction by a local preacher commenced in 1777. The Chapel was opened on 1st November 1778.
Wesley used the City Road Chapel (only later called "Wesley's Chapel") as his London base. Wesley's Chapel was the first Methodist church in London built for the celebration of communion and preaching. It is not the first Methodist church, however - that honor belongs to the New Room in Bristol.
In 1891, to mark the centenary of Wesley's death, the chapel was refurbished. The original oak masts that supported the gallery were replaced with marble pillars from around the world. As it was the Civil War era, the chapel received are two pillars from America: North and South. The stained glass windows were also added at this time.
Former British Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher got married at Wesley's Chapel in 1951. A devout Methodist, she attended services here from time to time but the security arrangements eventually made it very difficult to do so.
Sunday, October 18, 2009
Getting Ready
The fun tasks were to decide what books to download onto my iPod (Palace Council, Her Fearful Symmetry and a collection of Dylan Thomas plays) and to make a playlist for the plane. My suitcase is partially packed and I think everything is going to fit. I know it is a little early, but experience tells me that during the work week I won't get much done. So mostly things that aren't done today will wait until Thursday night or Friday morning.
I also spent some time reading a guidebook. It is a few years old but it is the LG guide to Britain. I read the parts on Wales in general and Swansea in particular, I also read about Scotland and about Edinburgh. I have more to read, I may bring this guidebook along on the trip.
Even with all that preparation, I can't really imagine myself in the UK. Perhaps it is because it is somewhere I have never been. Even though I have seen hundreds of pictures recently of London, and have been reading the guidebooks, it seems so far away. I really never expected to be able to take a trip outside the US (with the exception of Canada which doesn't seem that exotic) so maybe that is part of the blocking too. Well, imagine it or not, it isn't far away. Pretty soon I will be there and won't need to imagine it.
Saturday, October 17, 2009
Starting to Seem Real
There are all the obvious things, packing, paying bills before I leave and the other mundane things one does before a trip. And of course the really important things, like downloading a couple of books onto my iPod and making playlists for the plane. But the fun part is finishing up the book on the children of Henry VIII and reading the guidebooks and thinking about the things I am going to see.
When I was a teenager I read a series of books by Elswyth Thane that took a family from pre-Revolutionary war time in Williamsburg, VA through post WWII. There are 7 or 8 books and they take place in Williamsburg, in England and Germany primarily. While they were novels and focussed on the lives and interactions of the characters, they also provided a lot of well researched history, including parts on the Revolutionary War, US Civil War, Spanish American War, WWI and WWII, including the bombing of London. I don't know if they were good or not, but I really liked them, and they were a big contributing factor to my interest in history. For many years I have wanted to go to the places those books describe. A visit to Williamsburg a few years ago satisfied part of that longing. This trip is the next step in that journey.
I haven't been able to find any real information on my great-grandmother from Wales, so all I really know is that she was born in Glamorganshire, Wales and that she had my grandmother, who was the 12th of her children, in 1900. So my father and I were speculating and thought that she might have been born around 1865. But we don't have enough information to pin down exactly where, and her name is fairly common. There are several women with her name born in Glamorgan within about a 20 year span, any of whom could be the one we are seeking. Or perhaps we are on the wrong track. So we will visit Swansea and vicinity and imagine that she might have been there, and as the train goes through the heart of Glamorgan I will try to envision a young woman growing up. I look forward to being able to describe Wales to my father.
I think that it is now time to start chipping away at the to-do list....
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
First Thoughts
This is an exciting trip for me for several reasons. Of course first and foremost because I will be visiting my daughter who is studying in London, and I am looking forward to seeing her and the places where she is staying, studying and visiting.
But another reason it is exciting is that I have never actually been out of the USA. Well, technically that is not true, I spent a week in Toronto many years ago, and we took a family vacation that incorporated a stay in Niagara Falls on the Canadian side. But that would be it.
I am looking forward to the history, having always lived in the US, where 'old' mostly means the late 1800's. Of course there are older places even here, but they are less common and I have not yet been to many of them.
And I am greatly looking forward to seeing the place where parts of my family came from. My heritage is quite a mix, with one grandfather born in Germany, one Grandmother born in the US of parents born in Ireland, another Grandmother born in the US of a mother from Glamorganshire in Wales and a father from England (place unknown to me). My other grandfather came from a family that has been in Virginia since the late 1600's and includes English, Welsh, Scotch-Irish and Dutch among others. On this trip we will be visiting Swansea, Wales which lies in Glamorgan. We will travel on the train through Glamorgan to get to Swansea, and will be able to at least imagine my great grandmother having lived there.
I will be leaving on 10/23, and I will be returning on 11/4. We plan to see London, Bath, Stonehenge and Avebury, Swansea and Edinburgh. It will be a lot of traveling and will give us a chance to see various parts of the UK while traveling on BritRail. There are so many things to see, I know there won't be time to see them all.